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My Mazda has 170,000 miles on it, and the stick shift is really "loose" and notchy. You can wiggle it while its in gear, and theres an annoying resistance going into each gear, especially downshifting. I think it has something to do with the system that doesnt allow you to shift into a lower gear and over-rev the engine. But it isnt accurate, and making all shifts rough. Is there a way I can tighten all of this up? Also, will a manual transmission from 93 fit a 97 Mazda if they are both 4-Cyl? Are the 4-Cyl and 6-Cyl manual transmissions the same?
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I'm not sure what you mean by traditional CMS. Drupal and Wordpress wouldn't let you edit the PHP plugins directly that I am aware of. IPB is no different. You can certainly create new plugins/hooks/modules. I'll take a look at it. Hopefully it is a matter of updating the query.
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I am new to this forum. I have a 1997 626 I4 auto tran in HK. When I pressed the brake padal without ignition on, the brake padal could be pressed down nearly to the bottom without too much force. Is it a problem of any moisture/bubble inside brake line or leakage in brake line and how to fix it. Anyway, I could stop the car when I pressed the brake padal but the stopping distance was a little long. Thanks
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Hi guys. I havent been online for a while, and have been dying to ask this question: There are two water pipe feeds on the left hand side (passenger side on AU car) of my radiator, that are left unconnected. It looks for all intents and purposes to be a trans cooler feed and return (like on old cars, how the auto trans oil is warmed/cooled inside the radiator) but funnily enough, my car is a manual. Is this what it is? Just making sure im not spewing coolant out where im not supposed to. cheers tom. 93 v6 MTX.
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Hi all, In a long drawn out repair, finally the intake manifold is ready to fit back on. Took ages to remove old gasket cement, extremely stubborn and tough. Head reco place cleaned the mating surface. My query is, manual says no gasket rtv, but many people say use a smear. Is it required on all mating surfaces or just between gasket and manifold or gasket and head? is a continuous 1/4 bead around where gasket is situated, the best method? What is a recommended sealant for this task. Hope someone can help, Cheers
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you think fedex or ups make auto parts shipments or will be any restrictions? I have sent the query to FedEx and DHL but I have not been answered yet. I would like to make a first attempt with both taillights and the two front lights and grille. you think you can get me those parts? if they are new it would be great. thank you both for all the help you are giving me.
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can you all list the query's and any specific situations? ex. cai, maf, ECU, ford probe,
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Everything looks okay in google analytics as far as page speed goes. I'll install some other monitoring tools to better see whats going on. Good point on the search being down I thought it was only 3 letter searches having issues again (I need to run a query on the db to fix it). are the random slow loading issues still occuring? the only thing thats really different on this server setup is the google pagespeed module which I'm going to disable anyway to see if its having issues with the search pages. Because they seemed to work previously.
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Hi again, Finally getting to the finishing touches here. NEW correct distributor and already she's trying to idle at 700, but then stalls or runs a little erratic. I know it's back to school for the ECU...but I want to make sure everything else is in correct range. My query is this - to djdevon3: (don't know how to thread back with no "reply" box) In your post, per August 15th 2014 - 09:33 AM, 5th paragraph (still in diag. mode from paragraph 4) you say, " The ECU is currently only using fuel control not air to keep it at a good idle. It will do it automatically by itself (if everyt
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I also have a query regarding this same component for my Mazda 626 V6 (in Australia). My problem is that the aircon compressor runs continuously when switched on. By this I mean that the compressor clutch never seems to release as it should do when the temperature in the aircon ducting reaches a set temperature. This results in increased fuel consumption because the engine idling speed is determined by whether the aircon is running or not. Aircon running = faster idling speed. I suspect that the thermostat sensor (which I think is this G8D-140A unit) is not telling the aircon clutch to
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Hey guys I just bought my first 626 a short while ago, I've been lurking these message boards for a while and have had great success with the search engine but now I have a query of my own for you all. The problem is when I'm at filling up at a gas station the trigger to pump the gas will not stay on, it's a little hard for me to explain via the keyboard but basically what I have to do is pull the trigger of the pump just a little tiny bit and hold it there. If I pull it any further than that the trigger clicks back out as if it would do when it's done fueling. Because of this it is taking 15+
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01 626 V6 auto had a sudden and hot failure of the alternator that caused the belt to burn up and snap off and engine to stop running. Prior to this event all was well and engine ran fine. After the mech changed the alternator the engine would start but ran very rough and was barely able to move the car. mech thought timing had jumped so changed out the timing belt and set timing. (timing belt had not failed) On start up the result was same as after alternator failure. My query, is it possible that an electrical spike from the failing alternator could have caged another component and caused t
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In my experience it's limited by a numerical number. In the case of tens of thousand it would be 5 and should go to 99,999 if that's the case. For 4 it would be 9,999 and so on. It's just 1 number in an SQL field, very easy to change manually. My guess as to why multiple topics would have the same number would be due to the upgrade messing up view counts somehow during the automated update (query updates). That's how stuff like that always happened to me anyway. If you get the column count wrong an update could easily turn people's names into their post counts and stuff like that. Bad q
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Yeah, it does feel slower... One thing is though that the system cache's all topics and posts and such. When it builds the page it tries to grab cache's to save our server the load. Who knows, i'll look into the slowness later, but IPB is still saying only "0.1429 sec" to generate the page... Seems NDM fixed alot of the slowness by moving the JS to google and optimizing/compressing the code. @xenomorph Yeah, I realized yesterday that fast reply was disabled. When we upgraded it, we looked for the fast reply option and found it in each individual forum's settings. So I ran a manual query to
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You actually don't even need the www, so site:mazda626.net search query will work fine.
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I'm going to try to give you a broad answer. There are 3 ways I would look at your problem. (1) is the stiffness of your springs, (2) is the length of your springs (3) is the damping of your shocks. All springs have what is called the spring stiffness. If you get some springs that are stiffer, they will require more force to make them compress. Length of the springs is exactly what is sounds like. Hence if you have a longer spring in your car it will lift the car. If you have a shorter spring it will lower the car. Damping - if you have good shocks, their damping will slow down any movement
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Hello, I bought a 1994 626 2 litre diesel comprex the other day, I'm sure that's a model you Americans aren't familiar with, still this query may apply to your models. Basically it's been a superb car for the money, driven it over 1000 miles, but there's a warning light above the fuel gauge that comes on intermittently, usually when I start it up, and I can't for the life of me work out what it means. It looks like it could be a radiator symbol, but the temperature guage is reading a healthy temperature... Can anyone tell me what it is? I just drew a little pic of it!
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Thanks for your query. On a recent occasion (yesterday) whilst idling at around 800rpm with the choke on 1st click, the motor slowed and died. On restart with the choke off, normal idle speed resumed. (motor warm enough at this time as the car had been driven a short distance with the choke on.) Without meaning to be facetious, I have been driving for 50 years and understand the function of a choke, manual or auto. This is a repetitive fault pertinent to cold starts and never a problem when the car is warm. Whenever this problem is evident, some backfiring occurs on deceleration. i.e. wh
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That seems like low mileage to me, so I would first see if the service history is consistent with 79,000 miles. Look around the dash for any sign the odometer might have been tampered with. Ask how much oil it burns. Ask what mileage the timing belt was changed at - should be about 50,000 miles. Look over the body for any sign of repair. Listen to the motor - it should be very smooth. If not, consider getting a compression test done. Drive it and make sure to get it up to 60-70MPH and see if it pulls to one side or if the steering wheel vibrate. Try the brakes and see if pull to one side
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Since I own my beloved 626 ES-V6 1993, there is one thing that I dislike... There is no armrest for the driver ! I founded that Mazda had and accessory console that fits on top of the existing storage on center console. I looked at it with my dealer... 230$ ! I'm visiting eBay very frequently... no match for my query. Maybe one of you can help me ? This is the part : Same color, same condition ! Thanks !
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OK, dagnabbit! I just found this site after a long and drawn out search query on google. Now I find this post on superchargers and I am thinking this is the best news since the paternity test came back negative, when what do I find out but the guy building these setups has gone belly up! ARRRGGGHHHHH!!! OK, sorry, but I had to get it out. In any event, can someone suggest any mods on this line of thought short of turbo. It just seems too expensive and involved. Man, I was really pumped about this SC deal...
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G'day al, Thanks for the info so far, the only thing that I haven't looked at is the fusibable links, but just a query for you, about the alternator will that affect other elecrical components as well eg: the starter motor, as I have replaced the starter about 3 times in the last 12 months. and she is also very hard to tune up cheers and thanks Wayne
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Sorry the rad and fan is gone to, it got crushed in the collision I was in. As for fitting other models, I would have no idea. Maybe someone else could help with this query?
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http://www.justfuckinggoogleit.com/search.pl?query= and yes, it was mudvayne
